How to the Crispy Dog Became San Antonio Signature Snacks

The famous San Antonio dish, the firm hotdog, has been a staple at Pillar's Drive Inn since 1956. Despite not being as well-known as its puffy taco counterpart, the cheddar-stuffed wiener encased in a seared corn tortilla has remained a favorite among locals. According to co-owner Maria Lopez-Rambo, there's no chance of it being removed from the menu anytime soon, as customers are too attached to it.

These days, firm hotdogs are a rare find, with only a few restaurants offering them. They are a testament to the fading semi-secret San Antonio cuisine that exists beyond its borders. Many people remember their grandmothers, mothers, or aunts making firm hotdogs at home, often as snacks or party appetizers.

The history of firm hotdogs can be traced back to the Malt House, which opened in 1949 on San Antonio's West Side. Over the years, it transformed from a burger and fries drive-in to a Tex-Mex restaurant with a famous chicken box dinner. It was a popular gathering spot for locals and a place where people went for cheap meals.

Johnny Hernandez, a San Antonio cook and restaurateur, has fond memories of going to the Malt House with his family for firm hotdogs wrapped in red tortillas. Although the Malt House put them on the menu, most firm hotdogs were made at home by people's grandmothers or mothers. Hernandez now serves his own version of the dish, made with an all-meat hotdog and a nixtamalized tortilla, at Burgerteca.

Firm hotdogs have even made their way outside of San Antonio, but they are still most fondly remembered as a dish that people grew up with and loved, whether it was made at home or at the Malt House. Chris Galaviz, a West Side San Antonio native and historian, is so passionate about firm hotdogs that he even created a plushie in its likeness.

The Malt House was a local icon where government officials gathered, first dates were made, and families went for affordable meals. Sadly, it was a victim of commercial development and despite efforts to preserve it as a historic landmark, it was eventually demolished. However, the memories and love for the firm hotdog live on.